Friday, September 9, 2011

Method of stitching petal sleeve


Step 1
prepare the basic plain sleeve draft (Figure 1) Step 2 Open the fold (Figure 2)


Place this on a folded sheet of paper and cut the shape. This is done as we have to cut the draft in duplicate



Figure 3 shows right and wrong side of the draft. X-Y is the mid line of the draft. A-C and B-D are the sides.



Fold and place sides A-C and B-D on to the center line X-Y as shown in the figure 4
Crease the folds and open. Mark these fold lines as E-F and G-H.
Mark a point O on the line X-Y such that Y-O = 2 to 2½” Join the points B-G and E-D as shown in the figure 4. These lines should pass through the point O.
Copy these lines on the draft below using a carbon paper.



Take one draft and cut along the line B-G. On the duplicate draft cut along the line D-E as shown in the figure 5



We get 2 pieces of the petal sleeve. Add an extra ½” to the sides for seams as shown in figure 6.

There is another method in which we get the sleeve in a single piece. Place line A-B and C-D side by side and join them with cello tape
This is the draft of petal sleeve in one piece.

Method of sewing.

While cutting the fabric mark the points A, X and G by cutting notches.

Double piece petal sleeve


Curves B-G and E-D are sleeve edges. These can be finished with matching lace or piping.See Figure 7 If the material is thin it can be finished with a fitted facing. It gives good finishing.
Curves A-E-X-G and E-X-G-C are to be attached to the armhole.


Place pieces one above the other in such a way Points E, X, G and O coincide. See Figure 8 .Fix these positions by putting a running stitch as shown in the figure. Pin Point X to the shoulder line of the bodice  Points A-and B to the sides of the bodice at the arm pit.Attach the sleeve to the armhole. Sides of the sleeve and bodice are sewn at one stretch.

Single piece petal sleeve. 

Fold the sleeve along the line CA-BD .Overlap the two edges in such a way points E-X- G of one side coincides the points E-X-G on the other side and fix them with running stitch. Sew sides of the bodice
Keeping right sides together pin the bodies to the sleeve. Pin point AC to the side seam of the armpit of the bodice and point X to the shoulder line and sew them together.See Figure 8

 If gathers are need at the top of the sleeve Puff sleeve pattern  is used to prepare the draft
Photobucket

19 comments:

Sreedevi said...

thank u so much.

Kiranmai said...

Vani Madam...thanku so much for posting such good sewing methods....
i love sewing and have started doing that recently....i had gone through many websites before i found your blog...and have ever since not visited any other blog...because i find everything i need from ur blog....i donot have any prior training in sewing but am able to sew just because of your way of explaining the steps which is real good for dummies like me...thanku so much once again...will always be waiting for nice stuff on your blog..

nirmala said...

thank u vani...can u please give draft and stitching patterns of few designer saree blouse which we commonly wear...thank u so much for the effort u r taking...it is really helping us..

Ruby Murray said...

This is really helpful, I've always wondered what the shape of a petal sleeve pattern is supposed to look like. Thank you so much for sharing.

magdhi said...

mam ur blog superbbb......i want to learn more about stitching form u...so plsssss help.....tailormag@gmail.com...plsssssssssssssssss reply .....may i know ur mail id?plsssssssss

Unknown said...

i am a great follower of ur blog. you are doing such good work. you are worshipped by newbies like me.pls drop in on my site and give ur valuable comments creaive passions-sushma blogspot.com

vani said...

Thank you for the appreciation.

SVN said...

se days it does not seem to do good when people help ors. Vani has painstakingly developed each design and each craft work. Yet Mr. Bhupender Mendhekar of http://www.pratibhacollection.com/Designers.html site has every one of designs shamelessly and put it on his site offering design and clothing service to every one. I wish everyone would ban this thief from looting ors property this way. I hope this thief will never get anywhere in life. He has shamelessly called himself a designer when he is nothing but a mere cheap thief. Please contact LogicInception and protest this shameful act of this person. Disgusting behaviour should not be ignored.

SVN said...

se days it does not seem to do good when people help ors. Vani has painstakingly developed each design and each craft work. Yet Mr. Bhupender Mendhekar of http://www.pratibhacollection.com/Designers.html site has every one of designs shamelessly and put it on his site offering design and clothing service to every one. I wish everyone would ban this thief from looting ors property this way. I hope this thief will never get anywhere in life. He has shamelessly called himself a designer when he is nothing but a mere cheap thief. Please contact LogicInception and protest this shameful act of this person. Disgusting behaviour should not be ignored.

Sangeetha Sathish said...

Dear mam,

your blog is really fantastic. i know basic stitching and very much interested in sewing. your site is very helpful to me. thanks a lot.

regards,
R.Sangeetha

Vgaccounts said...

Dear Vani mam,

I am a great fan of your blog as well as in Indus Ladies. I have interacted with you in IL as Manjukps. I sent you PM in that. May be your inbox is full.


Thanks to your petal sleeve instruction I was able to stitch a blouse, which I have posted in the following thread, apart from sleeves in a frock for my Daughter. All were praising the pattern and the credit goes to you. Already I used this for my daughter's frock.

http://www.indusladies.com/forums/sewing-tailoring-stitching/180596-latest-designer-blouse.html

Thank you so much. If you find any flaw please let me know. I am also following you from my blog

buzzybrain.blogspot.in


Regards
Manjukps

Unknown said...

Hi Vani garu, Could you please teach me a princess cut blouse with raglan sleeves.

Thank you so much madam !

Regards,
MAdhu

vani said...

I have posted princess seam cutting and raglan sleeve cutting .Please see right hand side of my blog you will see a list of posts.
You will find them there.

Unknown said...

This is really heplful...!!! thankyou...

Unknown said...

Hi vani madam,
Thank u so much for the very clear and neat explanation. I ve searched for this type sleeve in several blogs but couldn't understand. Urs was v perfect n thanks for the wonderful job u have done n the pain u have taken to do this job. It came out very perfectly.

mala said...

dear vani, i need to down load a few of your postings. vani, you see i am a beginer. i really like and highly respect your tutorials. i tried to down load but could not do so. i only want those tutorials that i need, not all of them. can you please help me by enabling me to down load? i need to know how to make basic nighty, petal sleeves frock, long skirt and blouse, etc. please reply what ever your reply may be as i am waiting.

mahalakshmi




vani said...

Sorry Mahalakshmi,I cannot do that.

Poo said...

Super madam.. I am a starter. Buy I can understand your steps clearly. Thanks a lot.

Balaji Varathan said...

Mam, how much length of material we need for this petal sleeve jacket with a length of 5.5 inches?