Friday, January 14, 2011

Method of sewing " One shoulder dress"

Plain frock or an” A” line frock draft can be converted to one shoulder frock. Neck and arm hole is stitched with fitted facing. Interfacing can be sandwiched between the bodice and the facing to keep the shape of the bodice. We can also prepare a casing along the neck line and pass elastic through to keep the neck line in position. In place of the other shoulder spaghetti straps  can be used as support. Satin ribbon bow looks great.



Method of drafting front of the bodice.



Keep A-C on Fold. A-C = Waist length + ½”.
A-O =¼ chest-½”.
From the points A, O, and C draw perpendiculars.
A-B = ½ shoulder width + ¼”
A-N =¹/12th chest +¼” or to taste
A-I =¹/12th chest +½” or to taste
shape neck N-I as shown in the figure
O-D =¼ chest +1½”.O-D =C-E
M-E =⅛” .Join D-M.
B-G =½”. Join N-G
F-J =1”.Shape G-J-D front armhole as shown in the figure.
L is half of C-M.A dart of ⅛” is taken along the line K-L as shown in the figure.
Open the fold of back and front pattern .Now let us do the necessary changes.
Draw a line on the front of the pattern starting from the point N’ on the right shoulder line, going across the front as low as the neck depth and curving to the left armhole.
X is the midpoint of N-B.Draw a perpendicular X-Y to the line N-B it meets the neck curve at Y. Mark that point. Straps are fixed to this point.

Cutting

Back and front drafts are the same. So cut draft in duplicate. Use one for the front and other as back.

Stitching

Stitch the right shoulders together. Finish neckline with  fitted facing  sandwiching interfacing in between. If you want to pass elastic do not use the interfacing. Pass ½” wide elastic whose length is 2” less than the curve of the whole neck line and secure the elastic at the ends.Stitch the sides together. Stitch the darts, Attach the bodice to the skirt portion as usual. Prepare  spaghetti straps by using  Fabric tubes  Fix the spaghetti straps or satin ribbons at the point Y both in front and back of the bodice
I f you want to stitch an “A” line frock take the draft of the front and follow the same method.

Photobucket

7 comments:

Mahalakshmi said...

Actually I have stitched this pattern for my daughter too.very nice Vani.Can you put a tutorial for the kurta which is open in the front with button patti an a standing collar.The collar part I know how to do it.But the patti part I stitch with some difficulty.

vani said...

Do you want the button stands full open ?

Mahalakshmi said...

No Vani it is for the kurta.Thank you.

vani said...

Please see Method of stitching neckline placket.

Sreedevi said...

please teach me how to stitch Reversible A Line dress for my daughter

Sreedevi said...

please teach me how to stitch Reversible A Line dress for my daughter

Gurjyot Kamboj said...

Mam can u plz teach reversable top and kurti