Friday, June 4, 2010

Stand collar






This collar starts at the neckline and rises up towards the chin with no fold. Interfacing the collar keeps it upright. The front edges can either straight or rounded. It is called by different names such as Nehru collar Chinese collar etc.

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is mid point.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

Stitching

Place the paper draft of the collar on the folded piece of fabric with right sides together and cut two pieces of the collar.One is the collar and the other is the facing. Cut one more piece using interfacing. Place the two pieces of collar fabric right sides together and Place the lightweight interfacing on top and pin the layers together.
Sew the edges and top of the collar. Remove pins .Trim the corners. Turn the collar inside out. Push the corners of the collar using a thick knitting needle or with the tip of the scissors.Iron the seams. Fold the edge of one layer of the collar,which will be the facing, little bit inside the seam line and press.
Pin the other layer of the collar and the interfacing to the right side of your article of clothing. Start at one end of the neckline opening and pin the layers of the collar all the way around the neckline opening. The collar should be the same length as the neckline opening. Tuck the raw edges into the collar and press. Place the folded edge of the other layer of the collar on top of the joint making sure it just covers the joint and stitch in the ditch.
Photobucket

23 comments:

harmonious1 said...

WOW Vani! Thanks!

raje said...

Thanks a lot vani.

nasira said...

hello vani
i am new to stitch a saree blouse mam.would u explain how to join the parts of blouse.i went through ur blog but a little more explanation will help me a lotttttt mam.exspecially need to know how to stitch neck and patti.

raje said...

Vani, Can u pls tell in the mandarin collar do v need to use cross pcs or straight piece. In the stand collar how you have cut the collar in straight or cross/bias piece? pls clarify.Thanks

vani said...

If you cut Mandarin collar in bias you will get a smooth fit. collar sits well around the neck

In stand collar arrow in the draft shows the-lengthwise grain of the fabric.

saba said...

thank vani,you are doing a wonderful job.can you please post the draft for front open kameez with stand collar.thanks

nirmala said...

thank you so much vani.love ur tutorials.
nirmala

rishwagnevi said...

hello mam ur blog was amazing . it is easy to learn for beginners . why dont u post video tutorials for us.
can u post different styles of sleeves(slevees models) like puff , petals and so on .....

Praveena Priyaraja said...

Vani mam,

Could you please explain this procedure with step by step pictures like you have done in other posts?

Thanks.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, can you pls help me I want a draft for a sailor collar. Esme




vani said...

I am preparing the post for sailor collar

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani for your prompt reply reg sailor collar I want to stitch a A-line dress with sailor collar for my grand daughter's 4th birthday next month. Thanks God bless you regards Esme

VITHAL said...

Could you please explain this procedure with step by step about stand collar

VITHAL said...

madam please show how to attach a stand collar in neck piece.(pls show drawing also)

yasodha jay said...

thhi mam, a video on stitching color would help he to understand better, pls consider.

Radha Sujana said...

Mam,
I have a doubt in making stand collar,
how to measure the required amount of collar for our neck?
after attaching front and back we should measure the round neck??
if so how to?
please clear my doubt.
I am not getting succeeded in making this.either collar is coming less or high

vani said...

After attaching the shoulder measure the curved neck line from center back to center front using a measuring tape following the curve add 1/4" seams for each sides.

zo said...

Hi. Should we be sewing 1/4" seams or 1/2" seams. Thank you for taking time to share your expertise?

vani said...

Please see the above answer.foe collar it is 1/4"

vani said...

Please see the above answer.foe collar it is 1/4"

Nandhini sathiya narayanan said...

mam, do you please tell me how the change the collar neck of a kurti into round neck or v neck

Surekha Sanjay Bharne said...

Thank you for the post

SanAa !! said...

ur patterns & measurement detail diagram r extremely helpful. i had been lookin for dez & found it on ur blog ... thanx