Monday, February 15, 2010

Anarkali dress top with panels


Using basic Anarkali top bodice draft various other styles of Anarkali tops can be drafted .Anarkali top with panels is one of them. Even in this there are two types. In one type Panels flare from the bust line. In the other panels flare from the waist line.
 Anarkali top with panels flaring from the bust line

Method of drafting

Step 1



Place the draft of the front and back of bodice of Anarkali top on a paper as shown in the figure 1 Fold of the draft should fall on the fold of the sheet of paper.Trace the out line of the draft.Mark back and front shapes of armhole and neck.Remove the draft.

step 2


On the fold of the paper mark point Y such that A –Y is equal to the length of the dress. From the point Y draw a perpendicular line Y-U such that Y-U =E-G. Join U-G. Now we have to divide chest line F-D in to panels of equal width. If the chest line is not devisable equally add the reminder to the side panels. On the chest line F-D mark points P, Q and R such that such that side panels F-P =P-Q= Q-R.and the middle panel R-D = ½ Q-R. Through these points draw linesX-X', W-W', and V-V' parallel lines to the line Y-A. These lines divide the front and back of the dress into seven equal parts each. R-D, which is on the fold, is the middle panel. In this manner we can make as many panels as we want. See Figure 2 .

Step 3



Transfer these lines to the fold of the paper which is below keeping carbon paper between the folds of the paper. Cut along L-K-T-F-G-U-Y-L. Separate the sheets by cutting on the fold lineY-L.Take away one sheet which is below.This is the draft for the half portion of back. On the other sheet which is on the top cut the front neck line K-M and front armhole shape T-N-F. This is half portion of the front. See Figure 3. Number the panels as shown in the figure. Numbering the panels is important as we have to stitch them together in the same order.
Panel 1, 2 and 3 are side panels of the front
Panel 4 is half of the middle panel of the front
Panel 5 is half of the middle panel of back
Panel 6, 7 and 8 are side panels of the back

Step 4 
 



Divide draft into panels by cutting along lines X-X' , W-W' and V-V' and separate the panels as
shown in the figure 4.

step 5
Method of adding flares to the side panels

Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points X and Y by 3” or to taste, as shown in the figure5 These points X and Y should be joined to the points F and P’ which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the bust line. Cut along the outline of the shape. Follow the same procedure and add flares to remaining side panels .While cutting the fabric side panels should be cut in duplicate. One set for the right side and the other set for the left side.

step 6
Method of adding flare to the middle panel
 


Pin the panel 4 on to a folded sheet of paper such that the line Y-L is on the fold. Produce Y-X to A such that X-A is 3”. Join R-A.cut along the line-A-R-X’-L-D-E-Y and open the fold. This is Back middle panel .Follow the same procedure for the front middle panel 5. Cut along the line A-R-X’-M -D-E-Y . Open the fold.This is the front middle panel.See figure 6.







Add ½” seam for all the panels as shown in the Figure. Mark the seam line.

Stitching.

Stay stitch neckline, armscye and slant cut of the panels.It is better to Tack the panels together and then machine stitch.This prevents the panels from streching.stitch the rest of the dress as usual..

Photobucket

44 comments:

reva said...

your blog is the best blog with so many useful stittichng patterns thanx:::::::::: for sharing and keep blogging

vani said...

Thank you for the appreciation

Shikha said...

hi vaani its shikha.yor blog is toooooo gud.vaani cud u tell me the draft of anaarkali top with panels started feom shoulder.if u tell me it ll b very helpful for me.in hope of yor response.

vani said...

Hi shikha,
I have posted it in reverse order.Please see in older posts.

amma said...

hi..,
vani.., very impressive!
where do u live in bangalore? do u take sewing classes?
i'm interested in learning
thaila

vani said...

Sorry. i do not take any classes.

Varsha Sonawane said...

Vani..i love you blog..can u post videos as i am a beginner and it would be easy for me to understand..varsha

Varsha Sonawane said...

Hi Vani,

I love your blog. it would be gr8 if you could put some videos on it as i am a beginer and it will be easy for me to understand..varsha

FASHION said...

you may get more wide varities of anarkali suits from http://www.gravity-fashion.com

Andy said...

Hi Vani!

I have been following your blog and it is pretty good :) Helped me a lot. I need a help from you. I want to buy a sewing book. Pls suggest me a couple of books - I only know of Zarparkar system of cutting.. Any other books that would help me with drafting and cutting variety of salwar kameez / kurtis/ tunics? Pls suggest.

Andy said...

Hi Vani!

I have been following your blog and it is pretty good :) Helped me a lot. I need a help from you. I want to buy a sewing book. Pls suggest me a couple of books - I only know of Zarparkar system of cutting.. Any other books that would help me with drafting and cutting variety of salwar kameez / kurtis/ tunics? Pls suggest.

meera said...

can u write methods of "anarkali dress" in gujarati launguage...??

meera said...

can u write a method of "anarkali dress" in gujarati language.?

vani said...

I do not know Gujarati.you can use Google translate and translate it into Hindi.

mafa said...

Hi, your blog is the best ever I visited...... Can you please explain me how to calculate the fabric needed for anarkali top with panels

Anamika said...

Hi i m Anamika.this blog is very gud.can you please tell me how to stitch umbrella cut kurti or suit.

vani said...

Hi Anamika
umbrella cut dress is here
http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/search/label/Anarkali%20salwar%20set%20%20top

maheen said...

Hi vani,
i m maheen from pakistan,thanks for the help so nice of u,i was looking for anarkhali dress cutting but didn't get it in such detail.thanks once again keep it up.plz share some videos of basic dress designs.plz want ur help n cutting churhidar pajama.
thanks tc

vani said...

Hi Maheen
I have already posted the tutorials for chudidar pyjama.Please see the list on the right hand side. you will see.

firdous khan said...

marvelous work! A great job for humanity. May the creator bless u with loads and loads of happiness.

firdous khan said...

Marvelous work! great job. May the creator bless u with loads and loads of happiness.

Anju said...

Hi Vani,
Your blog is so helpful.Please let me know the length of the material to buy for a wider anarkhali and also for patiala salwar.

vani said...

Hi Anju
For Anarkali you need 3 1/2 to 4 meters of cloth and for patiyala twice the length +1/2 meter extra width should be 44"

Bees.world said...

Thanks..this is what I was looking for.. :)

Bees.world said...

Hi Vani, thanks this is what I was looking for. helped me. thanks so much.
just want to ask..do we stitch lining along with it..or it will be with same cutting but not stitched together?

vani said...

If you use the same cutting for the lining dress will be bulky so we have to reduce the bulkiness in the skirt portion . Draft an A line sleeveless top with same body measurement. Sew neck shoulder and arm scye together and the rest separately.

abrlotus said...

Your works are good and attractive

abrlotus said...

It is useful

gurmeet kaur said...

Hi,your blog is really very detailed one.can you tell me how do you post the diagrams,like do you use any software or by some other way.Hope you will reply soon.

Gurmeet

gurmeet kaur said...

Hi,your blog is really helpful and detailed one.Can you tell me how you post your diagrams.means do you use any software or some other way.Hope you will reply soon.

Gurmeet

vani said...

Hi Gurumeeth
I use paint and paint.net

Deepika Goki said...

Hi vani,
Can i have the drafts for the anarkali pattern?..very clear posts..thank you!

Deepika Goki said...

Hi madam can u mail me the drafts for this anarkali with top panel model..Very intersting posts..Thany you!

vani said...

Hi Deepika
I give tutorial in general with the help of the tutorial you can prepare the draft. I do not prepare custom made drafts .

Lisa Addison said...

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Shweta Prajapati said...

Hi Vani,
I am a big follower of your blog, thanks for posting such useful information.
Can you please tell me what is the appropriate no. of kalis in an anarkali suit to get good flare?

Thanks!

Shweta Prajapati said...

Hi Vani,
I am a big follower of your blog, thanks for posting such useful information.
Can you please tell me what is the appropriate no. of kalis in an anarkali suit to get good flare?

Thanks!

vani said...

It looks good if thin people wear cloths with good flare.You can increase the flare not only by increasing the kali bot also the distance X-U and V-Y in Figure 5.
If you increase the number o kalies width will become small and difficult to stitch

Craftyme said...

Hello mam
Please tell me what are common lengths of the anarkali?
How ling should they be ?
Please help me

manzar mehdi said...

its really beautiful designer anarkali suit for girls.

toolika bajpai said...

Hello mam , I really like your blog , I was just thinking that could you help me with anarkali panel Kurta with yolked angrakha , i'm a little confused on how to proceed
Thanks
Toolika

Sandhya Anoop said...

hai ma,am
i am sandhya . I am a beginner, uour blog is very helpful to me. Ma,am please tell how to stitch full length anarkali, and how to calculate the need of the fabric.

Krishna Prasad said...

Hi mam this is supriya from Hyderabad your blog is the best blog with so many useful stitching patterns thanks

Sudha said...

Hello madam I want to know marking of umbrella kameez in single piece. Please show me.There is no separation in body part and waist part. Please post this marking.