Friday, November 6, 2009

Pavade Blouse( Blouse worn on long skirt)




Draft

layout
pattern pieces
Measurements

Chest
waist
shoulder
full length of the blouse= G to H
sleeve length from = A to N
sleeve width
Sleeve band width
refer here for taking mesurements

Bodice

A-B (On fold) =length of the blouse+1”
A-L waist length
A-C = ¼ chest-½”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, C.L and B.
A-D = shoulder width +¼”
C-F =¼ chest +1½” K-N-F-O-G-H-I-C-L-B-K
B-K =F-C
A-C =D-E
J-N =½”
Join and shape F-N-K
D-O =½”
Join G-O
G-A =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste. A-I = 1/12 chest + ½” or to taste. A-H =1
Shape back and front neck G-H and G-I
M is midpoint of J-L .A dart of ½” is stitched at the point M on both front and back of the bodice
E-E” -1”.Join and shape front armhole- E-E’-O. Join and shape back armhole F-O
Cut the draft along K-N-F-O-G-H-I-C-L-B-K. This includes front and back of bodice.
Separate front and back by cutting along the line A-B. Keep one portion aside. This is the back of the bodice. On the other portion cut front armhole shape F-E-E’-O and front neck shape G-I. This portion is front bodice draft. An extra ½”extension is added along the line A-B while cutting the material for stitching button stands. If there is more material right and left button stands can be cut along with the bodice.


Sleeve


Q-P = length of the sleeve+2”for puff - width of the band
S-Q =¼ chest+1¼”
S-T=1/12 th chest+¾”.R-P = S-Q
R-W =½”Join T-W. S-X =1/12th chest. X-U =½”
Join and shape T-X-Q back of the sleeve.
Join and shape T-U-Q front of
V-W =½’
Shape V=P.
Sleeve band
Length = a-b= c-d= width of the sleeve ( sleeve round)+ ¾” for seams
a-c=b-d=double the width of the band + 1/4"

16 comments:

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani,

I have just spent time looking at more of your blog...........it is fantastic all the help that you are giving.

May I ask, I have several lengths for sari's, but am finding it difficult to find patterns for Choli's...............many years ago I was in Dubai and saw a lady with a choli that had a very unusal shape to the back neckline which was lovely........to see a design with a pretty back neckline. Would you be able to give any advice to how I could find suitable choli patterns?

Many thanks.

Uday Kumar Nilla said...

This Blog is very useful for the women, My wife learn and grasp though the drawings as shown in pictures. This is very useful to all men and women who is interested in Tailoring
Uday Kumar, Advocate

vani said...

Thank you for the complements

Rajani said...

Hi Vani i have tried to draft your saree blouse pattern. I have an issue with the bottom dart...
and my center point T is very low that i get only inch for dart.

One more question ...When i measure my shoulder from left to right shoulder bones its 13" but one of my blouse that fits me perfect has only 10.5 shoulder width. I am confused which measurement shall i consider?

Waiting for ur reply...

vani said...

Hi Rajani,
Please write your comments under respective posts.It will be easy for me to answer.Wear well fitted bra under the blouse and take the body measurements.Pull the straps up properly.If point T is still low increase blouse length.Always shoulder measurements is taken in the manner that I have explained.Take the new measurement and stitch.you will find out what changes that is to be made.Try on a cheap material.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Hi Vani , I would like to clarify with you is that in Pavade blouse you have kept A-C as 1/4 Chest - 1/2" won't the arm-hole be tight the same is kept for fairies dress as well, pls let me know. Regards & God bless you. Esme

vani said...

When we stitch scye round becomes bigger hence we minus 1/2 ".If it is tight you keep 1/4 chest.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani for your prompt reply. God bless you always. Regards Esms

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, sorry to trouble you again let me know if I keep A-C 1/4 chest as in palvade
blouse or A-O in faries dress. Then in that case have I to make any changes in the draft of plain sleeve i.e D-C & D-E pls let me know. God bless. Regards Esme


vani said...

please write your comment under the post you are referring to ( sleeve draft). if you change the scye depth you have to change the measurement of the sleeve accordingly.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani . God bless regards Esme

Mable said...

hi Vani madam, please le me know if this pattern is already with seam allowance or not?
thanks!
Mable

vani said...

Hi Mable
seam allowance is added.

Amul said...

Maam
what should b the length of the dart?

Divya Vijayakumar said...

Hi mam...can u pls post the tutorial for pavadai also

Mathi said...

Hi Mam...one by fourth chest u have mentioned here...wht s the chest measurement Mam...whether it s the exact chest measurement or chest measurement with ease allowance or both with also seam allowance??Please Clarify Mam....