Pavade Blouse( Blouse worn on long skirt)

Draft

layout

pattern pieces

Measurements

Chest
waist
shoulder
full length of the blouse= G to H
sleeve length from = A to N
sleeve width
Sleeve band width
refer here for taking mesurements

Bodice

A-B (On fold) =length of the blouse+1”
A-L waist length
A-C = ¼ chest-½”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, C.L and B.
A-D = shoulder width +¼”
C-F =¼ chest +1½” K-N-F-O-G-H-I-C-L-B-K
B-K =F-C
A-C =D-E
J-N =½”
Join and shape F-N-K
D-O =½”
Join G-O
G-A =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste. A-I = 1/12 chest + ½” or to taste. A-H =1
Shape back and front neck G-H and G-I
M is midpoint of J-L .A dart of ½” is stitched at the point M on both front and back of the bodice
E-E” -1”.Join and shape front armhole- E-E’-O. Join and shape back armhole F-O
Cut the draft along K-N-F-O-G-H-I-C-L-B-K. This includes front and back of bodice.
Separate front and back by cutting along the line A-B. Keep one portion aside. This is the back of the bodice. On the other portion cut front armhole shape F-E-E’-O and front neck shape G-I. This portion is front bodice draft. An extra ½”extension is added along the line A-B while cutting the material for stitching button stands. If there is more material right and left button stands can be cut along with the bodice.


Sleeve

Q-P = length of the sleeve+2”for puff - width of the band
S-Q =¼ chest+1¼”
S-T=1/12 th chest+¾”.R-P = S-Q
R-W =½”Join T-W. S-X =1/12th chest. X-U =½”
Join and shape T-X-Q back of the sleeve.
Join and shape T-U-Q front of
V-W =½’
Shape V=P.
Sleeve band
Length = a-b= c-d= width of the sleeve ( sleeve round)+ ¾” for seams
a-c=b-d=double the width of the band + 1/4"