Tuesday, May 26, 2009

How to stitch a nightie

Front and Back
Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper keeping A-N along the fold.
A-B =I/2 of  Shoulder width + ¼”.
A-F = Neck width =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste.
A-G =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.
A-H =Front neck depth =A-F or to taste.
A-D =1/8 chest +3”.
A-L =Waist length + ¼”
A-N = Full length + 1”
Draw perpendiculars from D, L and N
D-C =A-B. Mark point I such that I-C = 1”
Join B-I.On the line B-I mark E such that B-E =3/4"
D-J =1/4 chest + 2” or to taste.
L-K = D-J. Mark O such that O-K = ½” or to taste.
N-M =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join O-M.
M-P =3/4”.
Join points F-E, J-O and O-P. Shape P-N.
Shape back neck F-G and Back scye E-J.
Shape front neck F-H and front pcye E-I-J. (Shown in pink lines)
Cut along the line G-F-E-J-O-P-N.
Open the fold. Cut along folded line. Separate the sheet on which lines are not marked. This is the draft for the back of the nightie.
On the other portion of the sheet on which lines are marked cut the front neck shape F-H and front scye shape E-I-J.This is the draft for the front of the nightie.

Sleeves




Draw the draft on folded sheet of paper keeping A-C on folded line.
A-C =Sleeve length +1/4”
A-X = 1” for folding.
Mark point B. Such that B-C =1/8 chest.
Drop perpendiculars from X-A-and B.
A-D = Sleeve width =Half of sleeve round + ¾” for seems.
B-G = biceps = 1/8 chest + 3”.
X-F is marked a bit longer than A-D as shown the figure. This gives a good finish for the hem.
Join X-F-D-G-C.
Mark H such that H-C =1”. And Mark I such that I-G = 2”.
Shape G-H -C (back side of the sleeve).
Shape G-I -H -C (front side of the sleeve- pink line).
Cut along X-F-G-H -C. Open fold. Cut along the pink line G-I -H -C.

cutting



Prepare paper drafts of the parts of the nightie as described .Fold the material such that selvedges come to sides and right side together .Keep the fold line of the daft on the fold line of the material and cut. Open the fold of the draft of the sleeve. Place it on folded material and cut two sleeves together. While cutting plain material care should be taken not to cut two left sleeves or two right sleeves

Stitching

Stay stitch neck line, shoulders, armsyes and top of the sleeve .This avoids stretching of the fabric while handling. Join front and back bodice at shoulders. Stitch sleeve hem. Attach sleeve to the bodice taking care to match body front to sleeve front. Stitch neck line with bias binding. Stitch front and back sides of sleeves and bodice. Hem the bottom of the bodice.

12 comments:

manish said...

hello vani
how r u.
my name is manish from lucknow(u.p.)india.i want to make a nightie, i read your drafting but can i see picture of drafting. it will felp me right drafting.pls send me.

manish said...

hello vani
how r u.
my name is manish from lucknow(u.p.)india.i want to make a nightie, i read your drafting but can i see picture of drafting. it will felp me right drafting.pls send me.my id is manispandey@gmail.com

manish said...

hello vani
how r u.
my name is manish from lucknow(u.p.)india.i want to make a nightie, i read your drafting but can i see picture of drafting. it will felp me right drafting.pls send me.my id is manispandey@gmail.com

vani said...

Hi, manish
I am fine.Hope you are also doing fine.
I have given the draft on Monday, May 18, 2009.please refer to that post.
with Best wishes
vani

Mridul said...

Hello Vani,

Firstly, I really like your bolg. Great work in putting this together. Could you please teach me how to stitch a nighty for a 5 year old. My daughter loves to wear it and I would like to stitch one for her.

Thank you so very much,
Mridul

Rajesh said...

hello vani,
how r u?
i realy like ur blog.its very useful for new learners.can u plz tell us how to make elastic wasitband skirt with pleats.my id is chaudharyrajesh@gmail.com
thank you,
sonu

RajiSaj said...

Vaniyamma, iam trying out ur draft, i hav a doubt is AB=shoulderwidth/2?

RajiSaj said...

Amma, what is the calculation for point E ? plz help....
I am a beginner i am just trying out ur tutorials....

vani said...

A-B =half of shoulder width +1/4"
B-E = 3/4"

RajiSaj said...

thank u Amma, nighty came out well.
ur blog is my tailoring text book. the time u spent for creating this excellent tutorials is worth.it is really helpful for beginners like me . thank u so much.

vani said...

Glad to know that your nighty came out well

meena said...

Hello Vani

I am keen to learn how to make nightly with yoke and gathers in front...can you please post a draft for the same..

Can I also know how to fix a simple front open button patty..

Thanks

Meena